The Mughal Highway through the Hindu Heartland

The lowdown: I follow the ancient Mughal route between their two colonial capitals, Delhi and Agra, but also stop for 2 days in the holy Hindu cities of Mathura and Vrindavan. I get offered hash by some policemen, get invited to a wedding, bump into elephants, and speak to 1000 school children.  Amongst the chaos …

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The Race to Delhi

Covering my journey from Chandigarh to Delhi, this blog post is dominated by my rather uncomfortable proximity to an intensifying caste 'agitation', which are made all the more unbalanced by local elections in neighbouring Uttar Pradesh. With some luck, the problem won't spread and I won't have too many further problems. Things started off pretty …

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The ups and the downs (and a hell of a lot of flat in between)

This is a bit massive so TLDR: cycled from Amritsar to Chandigarh, the route taking over 250km, and had some crazy encounters with: a rabid dog, a Sikh pilgrim, police, a welder, and a national newspaper. Enjoy! My last blog ended as I hunkered down for a night train from Delhi to Amritsar. I arrived …

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